New York Times reporter and former chief restaurant critic Frank Bruni recently released a new book, A Meatloaf in Every Oven, co-written with New York Times journalist Jennifer Steinhauer. Here, the White Plains, NY native explains his love of the nostalgic dish.
What makes you passionate about meatloaf? From a cook’s perspective, it’s one of the least intimidating main courses you can make, and yet it’s a vessel for limitless creativity. When Jennifer, my co-author, and I were doing the book, almost every dish we loved—Buffalo chicken wings, Peking duck—could be translated into meatloaf with scrumptious results.
Of all the recipes in the book, do you have a favorite? I’m crazy for the cheesy chorizo loaf, because it has such bold flavors and it’s easy to make. The steamed rice in place of breadcrumbs gives it a terrifically cushiony texture.
Are you a ketchup or no-ketchup guy? I am ambidextrous. Or is that ambi-ketchup-ous? You will find that with food, there is little on my “don’t” list. I’m all “do”—and I have the love handles to prove it.
What do you say to meatloaf skeptics or people who sneer at the thought of eating meatloaf? I say you haven’t been using good meatloaf recipes or eating good meatloaf. There are meatloaves in this book—Mike Solomonov’s merguez-style lamb loaf comes quickly to mind—that require great skill and fancy ingredients, and flatter any cook. There are meatloaves of fish and of veggies. If you’re crossing off the whole genre of it, you’re only hurting yourself. Which is fine. More for me to eat! Click here to buy this book.
